You smell it first: the roast beef and the sauce hitting the roll. From a Super eaten in a Danvers parking lot to a Junior unwrapped by the water in Nahant, the sauce doesn’t change. It’s on your fingers before you’ve figured out where to put the wrapper.
That sauce is James River, tangy and a little sweet, and it’s on just about every North Shore Beef: rare roast beef, sliced thin and piled hot on a toasted, buttered roll. Add extra-heavy mayo and white American cheese and you’ve got a Three-Way.
It’s the only barbecue sauce most shops use, and Bill & Bob’s in Salem is a big reason why.
A Beef should be a many-napkin job.
Already dripping.
Why James River Works on a Three-Way
James River is thin, just thick enough to cling to the beef. It’s tangy first, with some sweetness and a hint of smoke. Mayo and cheese bring the richness, and the sauce keeps it from getting heavy.
The label lists tamarind extract, the same tart fruit that’s in Worcestershire. That’s the pucker you taste under the sweet.
Tamarind and smoke, right on the label.
The beef is shaved thin enough to soak up the sauce, and the roll takes the rest. Your shirt gets whatever’s left.
How James River Got to Salem
The label says it’s distributed by Smithfield Packaged Meat Corp. in Smithfield, Virginia, a town better known for ham than roast beef sandwiches. The North Shore part of the story is in Salem.
Nondas Lagonakis came to Lynn from Greece in 1961 and worked three jobs before buying Bill & Bob’s in Salem in 1968. He and his wife Ada lived in the house next door and kept a two-way radio on to listen for the kids while they worked. Some mornings, he was back at the shop at 7, five hours after leaving.
Bill & Bob’s credits him with helping create James River sauce. The Eagle-Tribune reported that he went to Virginia in the 1960s to help the company tweak the recipe.
Bill & Bob’s in Salem.
Where to Buy James River BBQ Sauce
Just about every Beef shop in Beef Country, 66 cities and towns north of Boston, pours it. A bottle to take home is harder to find.
- Market Basket: some stores carry it, mostly in summer. Look near the deli case, not just the barbecue sauce aisle.
- Local grocery stores: some smaller stores around Beef Country may carry it. Stock varies, so call before making a special trip.
- Online: listings pop up, but they’re often sold out. Market Basket is the better bet.
Quick Answers
What does James River BBQ sauce taste like?
Tangy and a little sweet, with a hint of smoke, and thin enough to soak into the beef and roll.
What’s in James River BBQ sauce?
The label lists more than 20 ingredients, but it’s mostly water, sugar, tomato paste and vinegar. Tamarind extract and natural smoke flavor set it apart, and soy is listed as an allergen.
Who makes James River BBQ sauce?
The label says it’s distributed by Smithfield Packaged Meat Corp. in Smithfield, Virginia.
Where can I buy James River BBQ sauce?
Some Market Basket stores and smaller grocery stores around Beef Country carry it. Online listings pop up, but they’re often sold out.
Does 3WAYS sell James River BBQ sauce?
Not right now. We make the shirts. Try Market Basket for a bottle.
Back to the Parking Lot
Next time it’s running down your wrist, you’ll know the story. It comes from a ham town in Virginia. A shop in Salem helped create it.
Grab another napkin.
We don’t sell Beefs. We make tees, caps and sweatshirts for the people who love them.
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Saucy. Slightly salty. That’s how we roll.
Beef On™
